 Re: Installation observations/Tips |
| Glad to hear Zeitrnoix was able to help you.
I did receive my gauge today and got it installed. Pretty much plug and play. I already had a Pod Cup Gauge mount from my previous Analog gauge. Took 10 minutes to complete entire install.
I really prefer gauges with a needle, but this digital gauge was better than I expected.
Here is a short Youtube Video link.
The fluttering you see in the video is just an anomaly of the digital camera. That's not how it looks to the naked eye.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Es_tMfn ... e=youtu.be
Could you tell me what you used to mount the gauge please? Im trying to find something suitable and your set up looks like a good one.
Any chance you could post some pics of the pod etc please?
Thanks |
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| Re: Installation observations/Tips |
| Hey guys.. first off very good write up. But a question for the wiring I got a zx 14 2014 were does the purple wire and white wire get connected to. |
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| Re: Installation observations/Tips |
| Looks great! |
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| Re: Installation observations/Tips |
| Glad to hear Zeitrnoix was able to help you.
I did receive my gauge today and got it installed. Pretty much plug and play. I already had a Pod Cup Gauge mount from my previous Analog gauge. Took 10 minutes to complete entire install.
I really prefer gauges with a needle, but this digital gauge was better than I expected.
Here is a short Youtube Video link.
The fluttering you see in the video is just an anomaly of the digital camera. That's not how it looks to the naked eye.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Es_tMfn ... e=youtu.be |
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| Re: Installation observations/Tips |
| After contacting zeitronix and some trouble shooting we found out that the splitter is defective. Great people willing to help |
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| Re: Installation observations/Tips |
| Thank you. I too ordered the gauge directly. It's raining here or I would out and try logging 20-30miles. |
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| Re: Installation observations/Tips |
| Ok i have mine all installed and is functioning great, until i added a AFR gauge from Zeitronix. The gage works just fine by itself but when i use the splitter to data log and run the gauge the gage just gives me 3 lines. Unplug the log box and the gage functions correctly again. I haven't had a chance to see if the log box is doing it's thing while the gage is plugged in yet. I'll check that after work tomorrow. Has anyone else had this problem?
Interesting. I just ordered a gauge direct from Zeitronix. Should have it Thursday. I will plug it in with the splitter and Log Box and see what happens. Will follow up in this thread. |
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| Re: Installation observations/Tips |
| Ok i have mine all installed and is functioning great, until i added a AFR gauge from Zeitronix. The gage works just fine by itself but when i use the splitter to data log and run the gauge the gage just gives me 3 lines. Unplug the log box and the gage functions correctly again. I haven't had a chance to see if the log box is doing it's thing while the gage is plugged in yet. I'll check that after work tomorrow. Has anyone else had this problem? |
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| Re: Installation observations/Tips |
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I ordered one of Zeitronics Hacker displays and have fitted it to the head stock for an instant reference tool.
It needs to have a box or mount made and I'll go into this later if any one wants the info.
It just fits into the system via a simple splitter block.
http://i499.photobucket.com/albums/rr360/1000-08/ZX14R/IMG_3571_zps7aebc90e.jpg
http://i499.photobucket.com/albums/rr360/1000-08/ZX14R/IMG_3566_zps5ccb4f6e.jpg
Jay Car are the best place to start if your in Australia.
I used a piece of large diameter 43mm quality Black shrink wrap.
Jay car sell it by the metre. take the Hacker with you and test fit it to the range they have there.
It needs to slide neatly inside the shrink wrap.
I then used some high quality mobile phone screen protector to cut out a window to go over the top the number Boxes. you can use anything clear. Even good quality sticky tape if need be.
You stick the clear cover down over the number boxes with a small dab of clear silicone. Just enough to hold it in place without it coming free. let it cure.
You then slide the whole printed circuit board inside of the shrink wrap.
Heat and seal both ends. The good quality stuff has glue internally that seals once its heated and pressed together.
Get a good neat seal at both ends and around the wiring loom. then with a sharp razor blade trim around the number display to expose the number boxes. You will then have the number boxes displayed with the clear covering keeping them sealed. Then carefully using your finger run a small bead of clear silicon around the cut line to seal the clear cover to the shrink wrap. Also run some silicon along both end edges either end to seal it up.
hang it up some where to let the silicon cure before you try to mount it.
Then using some good quality Velcro glue a portion to the back of the now sealed hacker with silicone.
This will prevent the back of the pcb from shorting on anything as some of the solder joints may have pierced the shrink wrap on the back side. I siliconed a small piece of plastic cut from a container to the back of mine to give a flat surface to mount the Velcro too.
Then stick either the female or male of your Velcro to the head stock of the bike just below the dials.
You can then run the wiring down the right side of the bike to the under seat area.
I will take some photos of what it looks like.
This is the easy way to do with the best results. Most of the small plastic boxes from Jay Car are to big or flimsy when cutting and shatter. The shrink wrap keeps it all in one similar size and makes it weather/wash proof.
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| Re: Installation observations/Tips |
| I had the wideband o2 probe installed on my b-king.
Instead of welding a new bung adapter, I had the original 12mm hole
enlarged by milling it internally and then made a M18x1.5 thread in it.
Here some pics about the B-king setup, the WRT kit fits perfectly with this positioning:
http://www.motoclub-tingavert.it/ul1402/immagini/upload_user/130460_1402784002_0.jpg
http://www.motoclub-tingavert.it/ul1402/immagini/upload_user/130460_1402784358_0.jpg
The red cable on the right goes from the relay contact 86 to the SDS wire getting a switched +12v
(the same source used to supply the logbox on molex pin 5).
The ground (black cable) from the zt-3 controller is connected to the ground on the relay contact 85,
so a single black ground cable goes directly from the relay contact 85 to the battery.
The relay is sealed in a plastic bag, when seated the logbox is wrapped with foam and a plastic bag. |
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| Re: Installation observations/Tips |
| I have bought the same display and I also want to put it in a box like you have done. Where can I find the same box? Could you also please add some photoes of the tutorial while you instal it? Thanks in advance. |
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| Re: Installation observations/Tips |
| I would NOT recommend grounding any Wideband controller (of any brand) to any chassis or other wired ground, only to the Battery negative post. Its is possible to pick up transient grounds otherwise. Its by far the best way to do it.
As for the +12v, Justin recommends the relay as the Zeitronix unit can pull to near 4 amps if loaded with the AFR Gauge accessory. Maybe not a good idea to tap off a wired circuit unless you are sure it can handle the extra amps.
I wired my Zeitronix directly to the Battery Ground post and my +12v I inserted into the fuse box in place of the horn. I unlatched and removed the horn wire, so no horn, but I do have now a dedicated 10 amp keyed on fused circuit just for the Zeitronix.
Here is a short video of my installation.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J_SeJC88obs |
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| Re: Installation observations/Tips |
| I had the wideband o2 probe installed on my b-king.
Instead of welding a new bung adapter, I had the original 12mm hole
enlarged by milling it internally and then made a M18x1.5 thread in it. |
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| Re: Installation observations/Tips |
| I used the frame for the earth and i just found a keyed 12v source. Have a look at the photo I used the red write. Look for the Red clip |
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| Re: Installation observations/Tips |
| Thanks for the write up, I'm installing my wide band O2 sensor and log box pro.
Where did you take the 12v supply for the relay? Everyone say rear tail lamp + but I can't seem to find one. And does the earth need to go back to the battery or can you earth it on the frame?
Other drama I had was I welded the bung in an awkward spot where the oxy sensor touched the engine, I didn't realize how big it is. Not a hard fix, I can cut it out and weld it on an angle.
I punched the cat out and put the sensor where the cat was housed, that way it gets exhaust from all four cylinders.
Any advice about the 12v source will be greatly appreciated.
Ash
I tapped the +12v switch source from the wire connected to the molex pin5 of the WR harness (same source of the logbox).
The power is activated when the engine can start, in particular when the side stand is in the up position. |
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| Re: Installation observations/Tips |
| Hi ,
Gasolinejunkie what type of bike are you installing on ?
On my GSR600 I got the switched 12v from the back of the IGN fuse. |
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| Re: Installation observations/Tips |
| Thanks for the write up, I'm installing my wide band O2 sensor and log box pro.
Where did you take the 12v supply for the relay? Everyone say rear tail lamp + but I can't seem to find one. And does the earth need to go back to the battery or can you earth it on the frame?
Other drama I had was I welded the bung in an awkward spot where the oxy sensor touched the engine, I didn't realize how big it is. Not a hard fix, I can cut it out and weld it on an angle.
I punched the cat out and put the sensor where the cat was housed, that way it gets exhaust from all four cylinders.
Any advice about the 12v source will be greatly appreciated.
Ash |
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| Re: Installation observations/Tips |
You'll then be able to fine tune it to stop the power wheelies..
Hang on tight..
Stop the wheelies??? Why??    |
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| Re: Installation observations/Tips |
| Yep, that will work until you get a full system.
It really opens the big Connie up from stock from what I hear.....
You'll then be able to fine tune it to stop the power wheelies..
Hang on tight.. |
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| Re: Installation observations/Tips |
| Rembrant.
The thread is M18 x1.5
The sampling should be done before the cat.
The Post Cat Sample would play havoc with the true readings from what I have been told.
You could have one of your stock bungs replaced with the M18.
I drilled though the divider at that time for piece of mind..
Sampling just 2 cylinders while not perfect will get an accurate reading.
The system isn't sampling individual cylinders anyway. Its always a percentage of all in the end.
The ideal system is aftermarket headers with no Cat or divider.
Most guys chasing power will go this way.
Hey 1400R,
Thanks for the reply. I'm all good now...after a little more research, I got it all sorted out. The factory header on the Concours-14 is a little different. I'm going to install the O2 bung on the RH side, which will sample cylinders 1 and 4. I'm fine with this now...my little peach pit sized brain has relaxed a bit over the whole thing;).
It's only temporary anyway, and is a make-work project until my full exhaust system is delivered. |
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| Re: Installation observations/Tips |
| Rembrant.
The thread is M18 x1.5
The sampling should be done before the cat.
The Post Cat Sample would play havoc with the true readings from what I have been told.
You could have one of your stock bungs replaced with the M18.
I drilled though the divider at that time for piece of mind..
Sampling just 2 cylinders while not perfect will get an accurate reading.
The system isn't sampling individual cylinders anyway. Its always a percentage of all in the end.
The ideal system is aftermarket headers with no Cat or divider.
Most guys chasing power will go this way.
Sweefa,
Its a pretty easy wiring job.
Just get some extra black earth wiring as what supplied is not enough.
The battery box has an outlet towards the back that will run the wiring up into the under seat void.
A well pointed torch will show the openings.
Cover the new battery connection wires you run with some cable cover from say Jay Car or similar.
Don't just run the positive through without some form of extra protective covering to prevent rubs.
Secure it along the route you take with Cable ties where you can.
You need to prop the back of the tank up to make it easier and use a guide wire or pusher.
Once you get the wiring from the battery to the relay you can use the tail light 12v Positive to switch it on.
Just follow the Woolich Wiring instructions and you can't stuff the wiring up.
Hope this Helps.
Dean |
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| Re: Installation observations/Tips |
Yes, nice write up!
I have a couple questions:
Is the Zeitronix O2 bung thread size M18x1.5 ?
Is there going to be a problem with installing an O2 bung at the beginning of my mid-pipe? It would be just be 2-3 inches from the collector in my stock header. The reason I ask is, this will be after the cats that are built-in to the stock header assembly. The mid-pipe slips right on the collector, right behind the cats.
This is a North American model, so there are no factory O2 sensor(s).
There are two blanks where the two factory O2 sensors would go....and I can't use one of these as it will only be sampling two cylinders...1 and 4, or 2 and 3.
So, I guess to sum it all up: wbO2 sensor at the beginning of the mid-pipe ok?
Cheers,
Rem  |
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| Re: Installation observations/Tips |
| Nice write up
+1 to that. I really enjoy reading those kind of posts!!! |
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| Re: Installation observations/Tips |
| Nice write up |
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| Re: Installation observations/Tips |
| This is my ZX14R Install.
Rip the box open and then start to rip the bike open..
http://i499.photobucket.com/albums/rr360/1000-08/ZX14R/1_zpsc89877d7.jpg
Stripped the bike and fitted it up over yesterday and today.
http://i499.photobucket.com/albums/rr360/1000-08/ZX14R/2_zps83826804.jpg
Headers have to come off as the Kawasaki Narrow Band is M14 thread by the looks vs the M18 of the
Bosch Unit supplied with the ZT-3.
It will be nice when they can offer the wideband in the Kawasaki Stock Thread.
http://i499.photobucket.com/albums/rr360/1000-08/ZX14R/3_zpsfc3a2fd9.jpg
The headers have to come off to weld in the bung to the stock headers.
http://i499.photobucket.com/albums/rr360/1000-08/ZX14R/6_zps15f698cd.jpg
One thing that did come to light was the cylinder banks are divided in the stock header.
The top of the collector samples the left bank and the lower section samples the right bank.
I drilled through the divider that you may be able to make out in the picture so all cylinders are sampled in the collector.
http://i499.photobucket.com/albums/rr360/1000-08/ZX14R/4_zpse7cb5324.jpg
http://i499.photobucket.com/albums/rr360/1000-08/ZX14R/5_zpse3a9b6f6.jpg
From then on in its a just a matter of laying it out and fitting the harness.
If you don't have the on bike harness already fitted that extra step isn't covered here.
The unit lays out easily in the void but I mounted the log box itself on top of the TRC ECU at the rear.
http://i499.photobucket.com/albums/rr360/1000-08/ZX14R/IMG_3557_zpsb4152702.jpg
As the bike harness was already on and this suited the existing wiring.
http://i499.photobucket.com/albums/rr360/1000-08/ZX14R/IMG_3563_zpsb1ccd9ba.jpg
http://i499.photobucket.com/albums/rr360/1000-08/ZX14R/8_zps9da3a65a.jpg
There is a simple switched relay wiring harness to be made and the relay fits well.
You basically power the relay directly from the Battery and then 12V switch the relay to turn on both the ZT-3 and the log box.
http://i499.photobucket.com/albums/rr360/1000-08/ZX14R/9_zps7282c53a.jpg
I ordered one of Zeitronics Hacker displays and have fitted it to the head stock for an instant reference tool.
It needs to have a box or mount made and I'll go into this later if any one wants the info.
It just fits into the system via a simple splitter block.
http://i499.photobucket.com/albums/rr360/1000-08/ZX14R/IMG_3571_zps7aebc90e.jpg
http://i499.photobucket.com/albums/rr360/1000-08/ZX14R/IMG_3566_zps5ccb4f6e.jpg
First part of the puzzle complete.
I must stress that you need to print out the instructions from Woolich and use them when setting up the Drivers on what ever computer your using.
Woolich User Guide |
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| Installation observations/Tips |
| Having just completed my install I thought I would add my observations.
The bike pictured in the instructions is fitted with the GB Racing case savers as is mine. I routed the cable as per the pictures with the addition of self adhesive velcro between the large plastic connector and the frame. It then sits very securely in position and is less subject to vibration.
This might be of assistance to those without the case saver to tuck the wire behind.
I also velcro'd the LBPM on top of the Zeitronix box. In this position you can still see the orange flashing light on the Zeitronix box but you have good access to the usb port, switch etc on the LBPM. |
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